White Oak Natural (Prefinished Clear) Retro Stair Tread Closed 36 in

The price next to the product is the price per tread.

Hi Vince,

Judging from the name, prefinished Beech natural would most likely be your best bet but is more expensive than the oaks (red or white). Maple is going to have a similar grain pattern but will be significantly lighter than the Beech. A quick Google search for that product and it looks like a Red Oak or a White Oak prefinished natural may be the best match in the Oak family but the grain may not necessarily match.

Price-wise, Beech is going to cost about the same as our Birch if you'd like to compare pricing.

We don't recommend using adhesive or glue to "float" a low area of a sub-tread simply because the moisture level in a large amount of adhesive can cause warping or cupping problems with the new tread. Instead, and if the low spot is large enough, consider using a self-leveling flooring compound rated for use under hardwood flooring prior to installing the treads. A local flooring store or home improvement warehouse should stock the self-leveling compound.

The link below will go into detail about the landings in the staircase.

Landings in the Staircase:
http://www.stair-treads.com/resources/staircase-landings.html

That's a great question and the answer is yes - you can build out the space under the existing bullnose instead of cutting the nose flush. One thing to consider: if you build out the riser space instead of trimming the nose, it is possible that your new tread nosing will extend past the edge of the skirtboard (if there is one). If the nosing of the new tread does extend past the edge of the skirt, you may need to add a little material to extend the skirt as well. This will also extend the run of the staircase slightly so you need to be sure there is enough space at the foot of the staircase to accommodate the extended run.