White Oak Natural (Prefinished Clear) Retro Stair Tread Closed 36 in

SKU
RTCENATL-36
$110.13 ea
White Oak Natural Retro Stair Tread Closed 36 in
For shipment before 03/21/2025, order this item in the next

Order a wood sample pack » to ensure the color on your device accurately represents the color of your new stair treads. Seeing the stain colors in your home's lighting allows you to select the best stain color to coordinate with the design and color pallet in your home. A finished sample of any of our wood species can also be ordered individually.

When each sample order ships, we'll email a $20 coupon code that can be applied to your next purchase at Stair-Treads.com over $300.

The red oak sample pack contains 2 pieces of each stain color to show the expected color range of each stain. For species other than red oak, the sample pack contains one piece, roughly 8" x 11-1/2" sample of the wood species.

White Oak Natural Retro Stair Tread Closed 36 in
ColorNatural (Prefinished Clear)
Unit Of Measureea
Width11-1/2 in
Length36 in
PrefinishedYes
ProfileRetro Stair Tread Closed
Thickness3/4 in
Wood SpeciesWhite Oak
Quickship ItemNo
Your Rating
Product Questions and Answers
  1. Q:I would like to know if you have a recommendation on which type of wood would match my existing laminate floor color. I'm interested in refacing the stairs that connect my entrance way to the main floor which is covered in laminate. The laminate color I used is 'beech' from the Dupont Real-Touch Laminate series. Any suggestions? Thanks, Vince
    A:Hi Vince, Judging from the name, prefinished Beech natural would most likely be your best bet but is more expensive than the oaks (red or white). Maple is going to have a similar grain pattern but will be significantly lighter than the Beech. A quick Google search for that product and it looks like a Red Oak or a White Oak prefinished natural may be the best match in the Oak family but the grain may not necessarily match. Price-wise, Beech is going to cost about the same as our Birch if you'd like to compare pricing.
  2. Q:I would like to know is it easier/possible too instead of cutting the cut the bull nose of a the tread back to flush with the existing riser or build out/install plywood behind the riser to keep it flush with the edge of the tread. Thanks LR
    A:That's a great question and the answer is yes - you can build out the space under the existing bullnose instead of cutting the nose flush. One thing to consider: if you build out the riser space instead of trimming the nose, it is possible that your new tread nosing will extend past the edge of the skirtboard (if there is one). If the nosing of the new tread does extend past the edge of the skirt, you may need to add a little material to extend the skirt as well. This will also extend the run of the staircase slightly so you need to be sure there is enough space at the foot of the staircase to accommodate the extended run.
  3. Q:For the price quoted on the stair tread do you only get one tread or more?
    A:The price next to the product is the price per tread.
  4. Q:I'm restoring an 1871 farmhouse and I like the idea of covering the old stair instead of replacing them. Since the old stair are center worn what would you recommend for a glue that will fill the void in the worn area. Looking forward to working with your product. DG
    A:We don't recommend using adhesive or glue to "float" a low area of a sub-tread simply because the moisture level in a large amount of adhesive can cause warping or cupping problems with the new tread. Instead, and if the low spot is large enough, consider using a self-leveling flooring compound rated for use under hardwood flooring prior to installing the treads. A local flooring store or home improvement warehouse should stock the self-leveling compound.
  5. Q:there is a landing part way up the stairs. what do you cover that with.
    A:The link below will go into detail about the landings in the staircase. Landings in the Staircase: http://www.stair-treads.com/resources/staircase-landings.html
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